Whilst my friends and family in the U.S.A. are lamenting the end of summer with this being Labor Day weekend, I am marveling at the new buds on the trees as Spring became official here in New Zealand on 1 September. Over the past month we have endured polar blasts from Antarctica and worried over the welfare of newborn lambs as they popped up with curious glances in the fields around our house, but now there is evidence of at least
the promise of better weather ahead. I am really looking forward to getting seedlings started for tomatoes, tomatillos and zucchini. It was most disappointing to finally accept that my tomato and tomatillo seedlings became stunted in my green house over winter, with no hope of recovery now. Indeed the price of tomatoes shot up over the past few months to make them almost a luxury on one’s plate. Fortunately canned tomatoes were readily available and affordable and used in all my hearty winter soups and venison stews.
One Friday evening a couple of weeks ago, B and I had loosely planned to drive down to Wellington to go to a jazz concert and catch up with our daughter. So loose were the plans, I didn’t purchase tickets in advance just in case he became delayed with patients, as often can happen on a Friday afternoon. As the day progressed and the temperature began to drop precipitously, I became less and less enthused about bundling up and leaving our house only to drive an hour and a half and perhaps feel even colder still in Wellington. So, I proposed we stay in and forgo the jazz and hunker down at home.
What shall we do for dinner, B enquired. Well as I had no intention of leaving the house, I gave the fridge a quick going over and was only too happy to find all the ingredients for a carbonara, right down to fresh home-made fettuccine from a pasta-making session earlier that week with my daughter A when she was home to catch the snow fall from the much anticipated polar blast.
I first witnessed Carbonara being made in the house of the man who was later to become my younger sister’s future husband, though she had not yet met him. My best friend, P, was invited by him to a dinner party and P being the way she is, asked if she might bring along her pal, Moi! We arrived at the house in Berkeley to find two or three Asian ladies lounging around on silk floor cushions, along with one or two other male guests, one of whom was a close friend of the host, a professor at U.C. Berkeley. There in the kitchen doing the chef thing, he appeared the classic Italian-American cliché; a swarthy young man sporting a full dark mustache with a head of long flowing wavy locks framing his olive complexion. He wore a black leather jacket while he diced and whisked in the kitchen, and when asked by me what he was preparing, he answered Carbonara, with the attitude of ”but of course”. I had never heard of this dish, let alone taste it, so it was with great curiosity that I watched him crack several eggs into a bowl, and whisk them until well combined with a fork, then add a good splash of heavy cream and a handful of freshly grated parmesan cheese.
He then carefully chopped up several cloves of garlic and added it to a heated frying pan with a healthy coating of olive oil and bite-sized bacon pieces. He explained that he would have preferred to use the Italian pancetta, but did not have time with his busy class schedule to go across the city to his favorite Italian Deli. Into a large pot filled with salted boiling water, he added a whole package of fettuccine and gave it a stir. After about ten minutes, he removed about a half a cup of the pasta water and whisked it into the egg mixture. To the pan of fried bacon and garlic and a dash of chili pepper flakes, he added the drained pasta, and swirled it around and around with wooden spoon to coat it well with the oil. This was then added to the egg mixture and combined with more parmesan cheese and many twists of the black pepper grinder. That the whole dish took less than 30 minutes to prepare with few ingredients and proved worthy to serve as a main dish at a dinner party greatly impressed me. It was dished up with some crusty Italian bread and a tossed green salad along with plenty of white and red wine. It was so tasty, and was soon an added favourite to my “comfort food” list.
To the host’s dismay, P had no romantic or any other interest for that matter in him. This thoroughly frustrated him further when she wound up having a bit of a fling with the Italian professor and chef du jour.
Carbonara has now become an old standby, a dish made with love and a sense of indulgence. Recently I read that its name is derived from the word coal, and was in fact a staple plate preferred by the coal miners in Italy. Perhaps it was the plentiful freshly-ground black pepper garnish that reminded them of their work. Another version credited American soldiers in Italy asking a chef to make them a pasta dish with bacon and eggs which they craved from home, and carbonara was created. I remember once making it for my sister-in-law, M, from Milan when she came to visit me in the early days of her courtship with my brother and feeling a bit self-conscious as she watched over the preparation. What the hell was I doing making Carbonara for an Italian in the first place? And a Northern-Italian at that, with their dishes easy on the garlic, as opposed to their brothers in Rome. The one suggestion she politely forced herself to make was to cut the bacon firstly into bite-sized pieces instead of doing it after it was cooked. Fair enough, and now I always do it this way and still make it in the tradition of the Professor, resisting the temptation to bastardize it too much by adding lots more cream or peas and ham, etc.
Carbonara and Love…long may it live!